When it comes to weather, it's a tough call, as Vietnam's climate is so diverse. Think frosts and occasional snow in the mountains of the north, and temperatures soaring to 40°C in the south during the dry season.

Vietnam's weather is dictated by two monsoons. The winter monsoon comes from the northeast between October and March, bringing damp and chilly winters to all areas north of Nha Trang, and dry and warm temperatures to the south. From April or May to October, the summer monsoon brings hot, humid weather to the whole country except for those areas sheltered by mountains. For the best balance, try the months of April, May or October. For those sticking to the south, November to February is dry and a touch cooler. From July to November, violent and unpredictable typhoons hit centrel and northern Vietnam, which can dampen the spirits of even the most enthusiastic traveler.

It gets pretty crowded from November to March and in July and August. Prices tend to peak over the Christmas and New Year period, and if you don't fancy sharing the sites with the masses, try to avoid these busy times.

Some travelers like to time a visit with TET (Vietnamese New Year), which is the biggest festival in the calendar in late January or early February;a nice idea, but not ideal, as the whole country is on the move. High season in Vietnam runs from November to March, with a summer surge in July and August, particularly for domestic tourists. May, June and September are usually the quietest months

WHEN TO GO

The best time for visiting most of Laos is between November and February, when it rains the least and is not too hot. It's also Laos's main season for both national and regional bun (festivals).

If you plan to focus on the mountainous northern provinces, the hot season (from March to May) and early rainy season (around June) is not bad either, as temperatures are moderate at higher elevations. Southern Laos, on the other hand, is best avoided from March to May, when day-time temperatures break into the 40s and nights aren't much cooler.

The rainy season is not as bad as you might think. While it will rain -very heavily - the downpours are often fairly brief and can be brack­eted by long periods of sunshine. The rains also clear dust from the skies and land, making everything clearer and brighter. Of course, there are downsides; unsealed roads can become quagmires and extensive travel in remote areas like Salavan, Phongsali and Sainyabuli might be impos­sible. River travel can be a good alternative during these months. If you intend to travel extensively by river, November is the best; flooding has usually subsided yet river levels are still high enough for maximum navi­gability. Between January and June, low water can make navigating some rivers difficult.

December to February and August are the peak tourist times. January, in particular, is very busy and booking ahead is advisable.